This product is sold only through the Shapeways.com interface
This model requires two pieces. You need to add part 1 to your cart, and then either Part 2 regular, or Part 2 Label Ready to your cart.
This is part 1 of 2
Part 1 is the back-half of the Holotape and is only offered in white.
This is part 2 of 2.
Part 2 is the front half of the Holotape.
Select the Orange color for the more accurate look.
This is part 1 of 2
Part 2 is the front half of the Holotape. It doesn't have the recesses on the top and bottom, and is slightly thinner to allow a label to be applied.
Select the color closest to what label you plan on putting with it.
The prop comes with some pre-attached 3D printed simulated screws. These can be used to assembled the prop with glue, or you can use real screws to assemble it. See "Assembly" below.
The LED will run up to 16 hours on a single battery.
For dying and assembly instructions see my Repica Prop Forum post here.
This part is designed to accept an adhesive label, see my thread on the RPF for label templates and artwork.
This part is 0.5mm thinner on either side then the Orange part, so a standard label should sit flush with the rest of the assembly.
How Shapeways fulfillment Works:
Many items on this website are manufactured by Shapeways.com
The parts are professionally 3D printed, and then drop shipped to your address.
I cannot customize, alter or process any returns after your order has been placed. All sales are final.
ZapWizard is the part designer. I receive a fixed portion of the total order.
Upon order you will receive a confirmation of the order, and a notification upon shipment. If you need more details on the state of an item please send me a message with the order number, or place your order directly on my Shapeways.com store.
All items in the US are shipped using UPS Mail Innovations. This means your shipment will be transferred your local carrier for final delivery. If you require faster shipping or international shipping: Please order directly from the Shapeways.com marketplace.
Shipping costs and any other related fees related to Shapeways are controlled by Shapeways.com. For more information please see the Shapeways.com page on shipping time and costs.
Shapeways.com provides a 10-day warranty for manufacturing defects. Please contact me as soon as possible if you have any defects such as a warped metal part, or heavily filled area. Please include your order number and a photo of the defective part.
About the material:
Made from flexible yet strong Nylon 12 plastic. The part is created using 3D printed laser sintered plastic. The result is a solid plastic component that is durable and long-lasting.
Like all nylon materials the part can absorb moisture. Care should be taken to prevent prolonged exposure to liquids. Dry the part as soon as possible to prevent warping.
If you want a color not available above: You can dye the parts using any colored permanent marker. Simply order the thumb tabs in white, and color them yourself. The surface is slightly porous and will hold color well. They may also be dyed using any fabric dye compatible with Nylon (Polyamide).
-White 3D printed parts
-Orange 3D printed part
–1 qty, LED, 2mm Red, Panasonic, LN222RPX
–1qty CR2032 Battery Buy this part locally to save on Digikey Shipping. They are available at almost any grocery, convenience or electronics store.
–1 qty, Slide Switch, E-Switch EG1218
–1 qty, Axial Resistor, 1/4W 56 Ohm
–3qty, #0-42 plastic tapping screws
For this design I only needed the files and exacto-knife when fitting the spindle together. Everything else is direct from the 3D print, no sanding needed.
If you didn’t order the screws, you can use the faux 3D printed screws provided as part of the 3D printed model.
Simply clip them off of the rest of the white parts. 5 faux screws are a included incase you lose or break one.
Next dye the larger portion of the Holotape. I used a Copic brand marker, “Raw Silk” color. The marker goes on darker then you would expect. So I first apply the marker, then use denatured alcohol to remove as much as possible. This left a nice off-white finish on the part. You could also use an airbrush to paint the surface.
This image more clearly shows the before and after effect of dying the parts. On the left is the part after applying the marker, and on the right is the part after removing the marker.
The grey color here is “Cloud Nine Grey” from BIC.
The orange parts comes pre-dyed by Shapeways and needs no additional work.
I made a label to the orange part by cutting up a adhesive shipping label.
The dust cover door simply snaps onto the rest of the assembly.
Install the toggle switch. It simply slides into position, no glue needed.
To temporary hold it in place, you can splay out the legs a bit.
The two halves of the spindle are designed to snap together around the switch. I found I did need to carefully file the snap-fit parts a bit to get them to mate, even then one leg ended up breaking off. Even with three legs the spindle holes together well. You can separate the two parts by twisting them apart from each other.
You can also glue the two halves together if needed. Take care not to get glue on the edges or switch.
Test the LED and battery. You can do this for a few seconds without the resistor in the loop.
Take note of which leg of the LED needs to contact the positive (+) side of the battery. It should be the longer leg of the LED.
Install the LED into the hole. I found that test-fitting it from the back helped clear the hole of powder, but no drilling was needed.
Bend the short leg of the LED towards the switch, and the long leg towards the battery holder. Take care that the legs don’t cross.
Clip, and then solder the short leg of the LED to the nearest terminal on the switch.
Bend on end of the resistor into a small loop. The loop should be no larger than the recess shown in the battery holder area. Position the loop such that it acts like a spring against the battery.
The other end of the resistor goes up into the slot, and solders to the other two terminals on the switch.
Install the battery. Then bend the long-leg of the LED into a loop. You should be able to twist the spindle and test the circuit. If the LED doesn’t light up you may have wired it backwards. If you did this you can simply flip over the battery, however you will need a piece of electrical tape to insulate the leg of the LED against the edge of the battery.
The orange portion should easily slide into the rest of the assembly. Secure the orange portion with screws, or use the faux screws as pins.
Assembly is complete, enjoy your new Holotape and show it off to your friends.
For those who haven’t played the game, there are five mini-games that come on Holotapes.
These effectively look like old video game cartridges. What I did was design a new piece to replace the orange component. This piece is 0.5mm thinner on three sides, in order to accept the application of an adhesive label.
Now if you want to build a game version of the Holotape, you just order the “Label ready” component. You can order it in white and dye it, or try and see if you want to use one of the Shapeways pre-dyed colors.
I also designed artwork for each holotape. I extracted the in-game texture for each tape. The in-game texture didn’t included a backside, so I made one up. Carefully matching the existing themes. I also applied a halftone effect over the whole thing to simulate a cheaply printed design.
Print the images at 49.6mm wide in order to scale correctly to the Holotape
Note, the middle text on each is flipped to keep in line with how the label looks in-game.
Collect all five!
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Save $10 on any order of four or more items. Applies only to items fulfilled by Shapeways. Discount added automatically at checkout.